Frequently Asked Questions

Pricing

What should be included in an invoice?

Most plumbing contractors will quote a flat rate that includes the cost of the water heater and any related installation supplies, delivery of the new water heater, removal and haul-away of the old unit, and installation of the new water heater. Depending on local laws, a permit fee may be required.

What fees must I pay?

Besides the cost of the water heater and any related installation supplies, a water heater replacement installation typically includes delivery of the new water heater, removal and haul-away of the old unit, and installation of the new water heater. Depending on local laws, a permit may be required - fees vary by state, city and municipality. Finally, in some cases, safety improvements may be necessary to bring your system up to code.

Water Heaters

How can I tell my hot water heater is going out?

Winter is in full swing and that means, in some areas in the United States, temperatures are dropping as low as 16 below zero. If you live an area that’s getting cold outside, the last thing you want is for your hot water to be getting icy as well. That’s why it’s important that you pay attention to key signs regarding the health of your hot water heater.

Having a dysfunctional water heater can lead to a bevy of issues for homeowners. It can mean cold water coming through your pipes, debris getting into your water supply, and a whole lot more.

To help you better see the signs your hot water heater is going out, below, our team has written out some simple identifiers you can rely on.

1. You’re Not Getting Much (or any) Hot Water

A good water heater should be capable of supplying you with enough hot water to get you through the day. This includes being able to serve you and your family during showers while washing the dishes, and while doing other hot water necessary activities. If you’re constantly getting stung by cold water in the shower or are noticing that it takes a long time for your water to warm up once it’s running, you’re experiencing one of the primary signs your water heater is going out.

2. Leaks Are Forming

As water heaters get older, they get more leak-prone. Leaks in your hot water heater not only diminish the amount of hot water they can deliver to your home but can also run up your water bill unnecessarily. If you suspect that your water heater may be leaking, call in a water heater professional to service your unit as soon as possible.

3. Odd Noises Coming From Your Heater

Modern water heaters are excellent at efficiently heating water without making a noticeable noise. If you’ve noticed a change in the amount of noise your water heater is making, it could be indicative of a problem that’s forming or one that is already present. The longer you let the issue sit, the more severe and costly it may be to fix it. If you’re hearing loud noises coming from your unit, consider shutting it off and scheduling a repair immediately.

4. Rust in Water

Heaters that are well past their prime may start to get rusted inside. This rust can then find its way into your water supply. Rust can be dangerous when found in water, especially if you consume water from your home’s tap. Again, a repair professional can help advise on how to best remedy rust coming from your heater and will likely point you in the direction of replacement units worth investing in.

5. Your Unit is Just Plain Old

One of the simplest signs your hot water heater is going out that you can easily identify is your unit’s age. If you look at your hot water heater’s manufacturer sticker and notice that it’s over 10 years old, you’ll probably want to get your heater looked at. To extend your water heater’s age, consider hiring a professional to flush your unit on an annual basis.

Wrapping Up Signs Your Hot Water Heater is Going Out

Now that you know the signs your hot water heater is going out, it’s time to do something about it. We recommend contacting our Long Island-based team at Order A Plumber. Order A Plumber has been servicing homeowner’s water heater and other plumbing needs for years. Let us provide you with the same exceptional value.

Original Post: https://www.orderaplumber.com/blog/2019/january/it-s-getting-cold-5-signs-your-hot-water-heater-/

What are some water heater installation concerns for homeowners?

Installing a gas water heater as a DIY homeowner can be risky if not done correctly. Some of the highest risk aspects associated with DIY installation of a gas water heater include:

  1. Gas Leaks: One of the most significant risks is the potential for gas leaks. If gas connections are not properly sealed or if there are any errors in the installation, it can lead to dangerous gas leaks, which can result in fire or explosions.
  2. Carbon Monoxide Poisoning: Poorly installed gas water heaters can produce carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless gas that is toxic when inhaled. Improper venting or flue installation can lead to carbon monoxide leaks, endangering the health of occupants.
  3. Explosions and Fires: Gas leaks or improper connections can lead to explosions or fires. Gas water heaters use an open flame to heat water, and any ignition of gas fumes can lead to a dangerous situation.
  4. Water Damage: Faulty connections or poor installation can result in water leaks or flooding. This can damage the surrounding area, including walls, floors, and possessions.
  5. Incorrect Venting: Proper venting is crucial to carry exhaust gases safely out of the home. Incorrect venting can cause backdrafting, which can lead to the release of dangerous fumes into the living space.
  6. Code Violations: DIY installations may not meet local building codes or safety regulations, which can result in costly fines and legal issues.
  7. Warranty Voiding: Many manufacturers’ warranties require professional installation. If you install the water heater yourself and something goes wrong, you may void the warranty.
  8. Inadequate Sizing: Choosing the wrong size or capacity of water heater can lead to inefficiency, poor performance, and higher utility bills.
  9. Gas Line Errors: Working with gas lines requires expertise. Errors in gas line connections can lead to dangerous gas leaks.
  10. Pressure Relief Valve Issues: Improper installation or maintenance of the pressure relief valve can result in safety issues, as the valve is essential for releasing excess pressure and preventing explosions.
  11. Lack of Permits: DIY installations may not receive the necessary permits, which can lead to legal and safety issues.

To minimize these risks, it’s always advisable to hire a professional licensed plumber to handle the installation of a water heater. They have the expertise, tools, and knowledge to ensure that the installation is safe, code-compliant, and free from the risks associated with DIY installation. Additionally, professional installation often comes with warranties and peace of mind.

What type of anode rod is best for homes with well water?

When well water is present and/or iron-eating bacteria is present, an aluminum anode rod is typically considered to be a better option than a magnesium anode rod.

Here’s why an aluminum anode rod is considered to be a better option for homes with well water:

  • Well water: Well water often contains high levels of minerals and dissolved solids, such as iron, which can cause corrosion in a water heater tank. Aluminum anode rods are more resistant to corrosion in well water than magnesium anode rods, which means that they will last longer and need to be replaced less frequently.
  • Iron-eating bacteria: Iron-eating bacteria, also known as iron bacteria, can grow in well water and cause corrosion in a water heater tank. Aluminum anode rods are more resistant to corrosion caused by iron-eating bacteria than magnesium anode rods, which means that they will last longer and need to be replaced less frequently.
  • Corrosion rate: Aluminum anode rods have a lower corrosion rate than magnesium anode rods, which means that they will corrode slower in well water and water with iron-eating bacteria. This means that aluminum anode rods will last longer and need to be replaced less frequently than magnesium anode rods.

It’s important to note that even though aluminum anode rods are more resistant to corrosion in well water and water with iron-eating bacteria, it’s still important to regularly check and replace them to ensure that the water heater tank is protected. Additionally, you should consult with a plumber or water treatment professional to determine the best course of action for your specific well water or iron-eating bacteria situation.

What steps should I follow to safely shut off my water heater?

Shutting off the gas and water to a failed water heater should be done with safety in mind. Here are the safest steps, in the proper sequence, to accomplish this:

  1. Turn Off the Power: Before doing anything with the water heater, turn off the power supply. If it’s an electric water heater, switch off the circuit breaker or fuse at the electrical panel. If it’s a gas water heater, set the gas control valve to the “Pilot” position.
  2. Turn Off the Gas Supply: For a gas water heater, locate the gas supply valve on the gas line leading to the water heater. This valve is typically located near the water heater or along the gas line. Turn the valve to the “Off” position. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable doing this, it’s advisable to contact a professional plumber or gas technician.
  3. Turn Off the Cold Water Supply: Locate the cold water supply valve, which is typically located above or near the water heater. Turn this valve to the “Off” or “Closed” position. This stops the flow of water into the tank.
  4. Open a Hot Water Faucet: To relieve pressure in the tank, open a hot water faucet in your home. This helps prevent a vacuum from forming in the tank, which can impede drainage.
  5. Drain the Water Heater: Connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. Position the other end of the hose to safely drain the water, ideally outside or into a floor drain. Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain completely. Be cautious as the water may be hot.
  6. Ventilate the Area: Ensure the area is well-ventilated to dissipate any lingering gas fumes if it’s a gas water heater. Open doors and windows to allow fresh air to flow through the space.
  7. Contact a Professional: After safely shutting off the gas and water and draining the tank, it’s recommended to contact a professional plumber to inspect and repair the water heater or replace it as necessary. They can also safely relight the pilot light on a gas water heater if needed.

Safety is of utmost importance when dealing with gas appliances and water heaters. If you are unsure about any of these steps or have concerns about gas safety, it is best to contact a qualified professional to handle the situation and address any potential issues with your water heater.

What are the signs my water heater might explode?

While rare, residential water heater explosions do occur and can be deadly. Explosions are possible with both gas and electric tank water heaters, primarily those that are poorly maintained. You can avoid such a catastrophe when you  identify the signs a water heater might explode so you can call for plumbing service immediately.

Factors Leading to Water Heater Explosions

High internal temperatures and pressure can contribute to a water heater explosion. Units are equipped with safety mechanisms to prevent levels from becoming excessive, but when malfunctions occur, an explosion may result.

When the water heater’s temperature is set too high, thermal expansion of water increases pressure inside the tank to extreme levels. Sediment gathered in the bottom of the tank insulates, which can increase temperatures beyond a safe level. Rust and corrosion of metal components prevent proper performance and impedes pressure regulation. Other component defects can cause increased temperatures and resulting high pressure.

Typically, the system’s temperature and pressure relief valve allow excess pressure to escape the tank – if this component malfunctions, pressure continues to accumulate until the tank can no longer hold.

Gas leaks also create the potential for a hot water heater explosion and the risk of a fire.

Signs Your Water Heater Is Going to Explode

When temperature and pressure rise too high, the system produces some warning signs. If you detect any of the following signs your water heater is going to explode, call for emergency plumbing repair service.

Leaking Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

The T&P valve regulates temperature and pressure inside the hot water heater tank. When this valve leaks, it’s a sign the component cannot handle internal tank pressure. Defects with the T&P valve are a leading cause of water heater explosions.

Always Open T&P Valve

When performing as designed, the T&P valve opens when internal pressure reaches a specific set point to relieve thermal expansion which lowers pressure. The valve also opens when water temperatures reach a high set point, allowing cool water to enter that tank and mix to reduce water temperatures. In either scenario, the valve closes once problematic conditions are relieved.

If the T&P valve always remains open, this indicates consistent issues with internal pressure and water temperature. which could cause an explosion should the valve fail.

Popping Noises

When tanks are not maintained and flushing is not performed on a regular basis, sediment from the water supply gathers at the bottom of the water heater. Thick layers of sediment effectively become insulation between the water and heating elements, and temperatures increase because the heating elements are unable to efficiently heat the water supply. Popping occurs as water trapped below the sediment against the heating element boils.

A popping sound indicates the presence of sediment and the potential for overheating due to the conditions explained above. Sediment also poses a risk of T&P valve malfunction, as the sediment can clog this component and prevent it from opening when needed to relieve high pressure and temperature conditions, creating issues that are signs your water heater might explode.

Brown Water

Brown water is another sign your water heater may explode as it indicates the presence of sediment in the tank. Hot water from household taps may also present a brown color when rust is present, meaning components of the water heater or the tank have rusted and are at risk for malfunction. Sediment and its indicators are signs a hot water heater might explode.

Rotten Egg Odor

The smell of rotten eggs near your water heater is another sign your water heater could burst as it indicates a gas leak. Gas leaks occur due to poor installation, damaged gas lines and other system issues. The water heater’s pilot light can ignite the gas, leading to a severe explosion and fire.

Protect Your Household: Watch for Signs Your Water Heater Might Explode

A water heater explosion can be devastating. This extreme system failure can cause extensive damage to the home and its plumbing system, and the force of an exploding hot water heater tank has the potential to injure or kill occupants. Diligently watch for signs your water heater might explode, and contact your plumber immediately for emergency plumbing repairs.

Original post: https://grovehvac.com/signs-your-water-heater-is-going-to-explode/

What are some water heater concerns for homes with well water?

When you have well water, your water heater and other water appliances require extra care to ensure that they function properly and last as long as possible.

Here are a few key things for owners of homes with well water to keep in mind:

  • Water quality issues are a key factor, if not the most important factor in longevity of your water heater and other appliances that touch water. (Coffee maker, ice maker, dish washer, clothes washer, etc.)
  • Water testing: Well water can contain high levels of minerals, sulfides, and dissolved solids that can cause corrosion in water heaters and other appliances. It’s important to have the water tested regularly to ensure that it meets safe drinking water standards and to identify any potential issues that need to be addressed. Water quality changes as quickly as water flows.
  • Water treatment: Depending on the results of your water test, you may need to install a water treatment system to remove minerals and dissolved solids from your well water. This can include things like water softeners, iron filters, chlorine injection, and reverse osmosis systems.
  • Anode rod: An anode rod is a component in the water heater tank that helps to protect the tank from corrosion. It’s important to check the anode rod regularly and replace it if necessary, especially if you have well water, as it can be more corrosive than municipal water and can react with water heater components differently.
  • Flush the tank: It’s important to flush the water heater tank regularly to remove any sediment and debris that can accumulate in the tank. This can help to extend the life of the water heater and improve its efficiency. The hardness level of the water indicates the amount of sediment (crushed rock, sand, dirt, etc.) suspended in your water.
  • Regular maintenance: Regular maintenance is important to keep your water heater and other appliances running smoothly. This can include things like checking the temperature and pressure relief valves, and checking the pipes and connections for leaks.
  • Professional inspection: It’s a good idea to have a professional plumber inspect your water heater and other appliances on a regular basis, especially if you have well water, to check for any issues and ensure that everything is in good working order.

By following these best practices, you can help to ensure that your water heater and other appliances are in good working order and that they last as long as possible. More importantly, you can ensure your family has safe healthy water for all your needs.

What do these four hot water heater sounds mean?

The water heater may be the most overworked and under-appreciated piece of mechanical equipment in a house. We usually assume it’s doing its job as it should and leave it alone, unless it starts to makes weird and scary noises.

To help you avoid a potentially dangerous and expensive plumbing crisis, we’re looking at four frightening sounds your water heater can make and what they mean.

  1. Popping Sounds One of the most common sounds a water heater can make is popping. When that happens, it’s usually an indication that your water heater has an excess of mineral deposits and sediment at the bottom. This is especially problematic in areas that have hard water. Mineral deposits (mainly lime and calcium), sand, and any debris that might travel through the water supply can stick to the bottom of your water heater.Eventually, the buildup of gunk at the bottom may trap water beneath the sediment. Think of a pot of water you have on the stove. If you’re not paying attention, and if the heat is too high, the water will boil, and it will continue to boil until it flows over the sides of the pot. In the case of your water heater, at some point, the pressure from the steam bubbles will cause the water tank to explode if your model is older.
  2. The Solution
  3. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution to this problem. The best way to prevent sediment from building up is to have the water heater flushed out to remove all of the mineral deposits and sediments. Mr. Plumber’s Certified Experts can flush and fill your water heater once a year to prevent sediment buildup for better performance and increased lifespan.
  4. Screeching SoundsScreeching noises are sometimes indicative of water flow restriction. The most likely cause is the inlet control valve on the water heater. A partially closed valve will prevent water from flowing through the pipes.The Solution
  5. Easy: check the valve to make sure it’s open! If it’s halfway open, turn the valve so it’s now wide open. If that was the problem, the sizzling should stop.
  6. Crackling SoundsIf you have a gas-powered water heater, it’s possible there’s condensation on the burner. Although the noise may be annoying, it is not a sign of anything wrong with your water heater. No action required, here.
  7. Sizzling SoundsIf there is a leak in your water heater, that could cause a sizzling sound. The sizzle occurs when leaking water drips onto the burner. If you don’t have hot water, or if you see water on the floor around your water heater, it’s probably coming from a leak.The Solution
  8. Unfortunately, this fix isn’t as easy. A water leak isn’t going to repair itself. Besides the wasted water, you’re wasting energy because the water heater is heating water that no one can use. Click here to schedule an appointment with one of our trusted plumbers to quickly resolve the situation before it wastes any more money.

Original post: https://www.mrplumberatlanta.com/help-guides/four-scary-noises-water-heater-making-might-mean/

Can I shower if my water heater is leaking?

A leaking water heater is quite bothersome – It can give off a pretty dangerous vibe and may make taking a shower to appear to be unsafe.

It is perfectly safe to shower when the water heater is leaking. However, in order to prevent further water damage, it is important to figure out what is causing the water leak.

To help you out, we’ve compiled all the information you need to know regarding water heaters – Why they malfunction, what you can do to address such issues, how long they last on average, and much more! Keep reading to find out everything you need to know regarding why a water heater could possibly leak.



Why Do Water Heaters Leak?

There are a number of reasons why water heaters could start leaking, figuring out the exact reason usually requires a close-up inspection.

The most common cause for a leaking water heater is the drain valve, however, there could be a number of other reasons why it has sprung a leak. We’ll take you through the primary reasons as to why water heaters start leaking;

Water Supply Line Issues

Typically, water heaters have supply lines that are installed to ensure a smooth flow of water into the tank of the water heater. A leak in this part of the setup is most often the culprit and can leak all the way down to the wiring and/or the tank itself. When this happens, it can look like there is an issue with the tank or other parts of the water heater. If the supply tubes are, in fact, faulty, your only option is to replace them. To do so, you can enlist a professional or purchase replacement tubes and swap them out.

Leaking fittings

Where the water lines connect to the water heater, you’ll find a set of fittings. This is another area in which leaks can be very common. In most cases tightening the fittings slightly solves the problem. Be careful however if you have brass compression fittings. It is very easy to overtighten them. Most brass compression fittings should be hand tightened and then a further quarter turn.

Temperature and Pressure Valve Issues

Typically, Temperature and Pressure (T&P) Valves can cause leakage in your unit. That being said, this usually indicates a more serious issue and in most cases, it is advisable to call a plumber.

Drain valve issues

Most water heaters have a drain in the lowest part of the unit. Depending on the type of valve used the rubber seals in the valve can deteriorate and the valve itself can start leaking. In most cases when the valve is leaking it is necessary to replace the valve. This is doable as a DIY project. Just make sure to buy the right size valve. Here is a 3/4 inch valve with a 2-inch shank from Amazon.

Rusting tank

If none of the previous solutions seem to work, odds are your water heater’s tank is leaking. This typically happens when there is a hole in the tank, this can be due to rust or manufacturing defect.

How Long Will a Leaking Water Heater Last?


The answer to this question largely depends on the nature and scope of the leak itself.

If the heater is leaking from a fitting or a drain valve theoretically this has no effect on the longevity of the heater and you could use the heater like this for years.

Provided of course that you don’t mind the water damage

However, if it is a more serious issue, such as a leak within the tank the leak will only increase over time and the unit should be replaced as soon as possible.

When choosing a new water heater and you live in an area where there are frequent power outages you might be interested in finding out which type of water heater is best for that.

I have written an article about showering during a power outage, go check it out, there is a ton of info in there about water heaters.

If you find out that it is necessary to replace the water heater it is a good idea to consider tankless water heaters. They have many benefits over traditional water heaters.

Here are 9 benefits of a tankless water heater.

How Do I Maintain a Water Heater?

While leaks demand immediate attention, performing routine checkups and maintenance can help add longevity to your water heater unit. To get the best results and keep your unit functioning properly, follow these steps to ensure smooth operation;

Set Correct Temperature

Many people set their water heater temperature too high. This can shorten the life of the heating element. To prevent that, set your thermostat to a lower temperature (we recommend anything lower than 120 F). This will prevent scalding and protect the taps from hot water.

Draining and Flushing your tank

At least once a year, make sure to drain and flush your water heater’s tank. This will clean the insides of the unit and prevent the build-up of impurities and sediments. To do so, turn off the water supply to the heater and connect a pipe or a hose to the drain valve. Then, put the other end of that pipe into a drain and empty the tank.

Inspect the parts for damage/issues

When you perform a routine check-up, inspect the external of the heater for small leaks. This will help catch the leak before water damage occurs.

Many people have not considered this, but it is possible to paint a water heater to make it look like new. If yours is still in working order, but you would like to spruce it up by giving it a new coat of paint read my guide on how to paint a water heater.

So, there you have it – this article offers a comprehensive list of ideas and solutions that can help with the maintenance, as well as the service of your water heater. If you’ve exhausted these options, you’ll likely need to install a new unit or call in a professional to help with your current one. Thanks for reading and we hope we have been able to assist you with your leaking water heater!

Original post: https://hvac-buzz.com/leaking-water-heater-shower/

Buying Guide

What do these hot water heater noises mean?

Hot Water Heater Noise Diagnosis

Catalog of causes & cures of noises heard at or in water heaters, calorifiers, cylinders:

This article explains how to diagnose and cure noisy water heaters such as popping, hissing, crackling or banging.

We describe the different types of sounds heard at a water heater, what they mean, their cause, and their elimination.

We discuss: How to diagnose and cure water heater rumbling, clanking, cracking, resonant shrieking or whistling, or other hot water heater noises. Advice and photo-guide to de-liming and de-scaling hot water heaters - Scale formation in water heaters and methods of prevention. How to remove silt or debris from the hot water heater tank. Rate of deposition of lime and scale in plumbing systems.

The sketch at page top is courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection & home inspection education company. Used with permission.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

Noise Diagnosis & Repair Guide for Residential Hot Water Heaters

Measuring thickness of scale in water heater tank bottom (C) Daniel Friedman

Here, listed alphabetically, we describe all of the sounds that might come from a water heater, geyser, cylinder, or calorifier.

We give an index into this water heater sound dictionary but you may want to read through the whole list because what one person describes as a hiss another may consider a sizzle. Is it a snap, crackle or pop?

Water Heater / Calorifier / Geyser / Cylinder Noise & Sound Index

[Click to enlarge any image]

List of Water Heater Noises & Their Causes

  • Bang or Boom or Pounding: several problems can cause a bang when a water heater first starts heating water. Common water heater banging noises that we'll detail below include
  • Dangerous gas or oil fired heater malfunctions
  • Scale or lime formation in the water heater, particularly gas or oil fired water heaters where scale on the heater tank bottom causes surging and banging sounds.

    The term "lime" is in this case a synonym for "scale" and both refer to a build-up of Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) as the predominant ingredient in scale in hot water systems. Scale tends to form as minerals precipitate out of heated water at the hottest points in the system such as at the bottom of a gas or oil fired calorifier (water heater) or at the surface of electric water heater elements.

    Water that is high in mineral content and water that is heated to higher temperatures both cause an increase in the rate of scale formation.

    See WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE for a description of how we remove scale from a water heater using an acid wash and flushing.
  • Thermal expansion of hot water can also cause banging and booming sounds as noises may be transmitted through pipes, ducts, even building framing.
  • Water hammer, a loud bang when water is shut off, an artifact of water velocity in the building piping system:

    See WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE for a detailed explanation of the causes & cures of this sound

    also see AOS Bulletin 11: WATER HAMMER [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17, original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin11.pdf

    Thermal-expansion water heater start-up bangs: if the water heater was cold, for example because it had been turned off or because you first used up all hot water and then stopped running water, thermal expansion might cause a water expansion problem, though I don't commonly see this as causing a "bang" - some reports claim it might. Your hot water system may need the addition of an expansion tank.

    Watch out: water hammer is more than a troubling noise, it can be dangerous in subtle ways. Water hammer is usually caused by the combination of velocity of running water and the sudden closing of a valve through which water was moving.

    Water hammer from any source can, however cause leaks at relief valves and rarely, other plumbing leaks. A leaky relief valve can in turn become clogged by mineral deposits rendering it inoperable. That in turn can cause a dangerous BLEVE Explosion.

    Gas or oil-fired water heater start-up bangs: Water heater start-up bangs can be caused by other problems including thermal expansion of metal parts, even a flue vent connector or the water heater tank itself, or more serious, water heater start-up exploding sounds may be caused by dangerous burner or fuel system problems or leaks.

    See HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS to address thermal expansion problems.

    Or
    See WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE to address water hammer problems traced to water velocity

    Or
    See BLEVE EXPLOSIONS for an explanation of why any pressurized water tank can become a rocket

    Watch out: If your water heater makes a banging sound only when it starts AND if your water heater is gas or oil fired the situation may be dangerous. If there is un-burned gas or oil that is being re-ignited when a burner starts then your heater is not operating properly and it is unsafe. The risk is a dangerous gas explosion or an oil burner puffback explosion.

    Turn off water heaters that are making these explosion sound, bangs or booms and call for professional repair.

    See GAS LEAK DETECTION, LP / NG if there is gas accumulating that is igniting and causing a boom or bang when your gas fired water heater starts-up

    See OIL BURNER SOOT & PUFFBACKS if you have an oil burner type water heater that makes a bang when the oil burner ignites or starts-up

    See THERMOCOUPLE REPAIR / REPLACEMENT - for help in repairing thermocouple problems that may be preventing proper gas burner operation: the flame won't stay lit

    or the broad topic of controlling plumbing noises in buildings

    see SOUND CONTROL for PLUMBING.Also see NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE where we describe how to locate the source of, identify and correct various building sounds and noises indoors or on occasion, noises from outside that penetrate indoors at annoying levels.
  • Separately at SOUND CONTROL in BUILDINGS we provide a series of detailed articles on reducing unwanted building noise levels through building design, insulation, sound isolation, and noise barriers.
  • Lime or scale in plumbing systems is caused by hard water as well as silicates, sulfates, and similar materials form water scale that coats the bottom of a hot water tank or the surface of the electrodes in an electric water heater, interfering with proper water heater operation, causing water heater noises, reduction in hot water quantity, increased water heater operating costs, and a shorter water heater life.

    Silt and soil debris can also collect in a water heater tank where it can cause similar problems even if the water supply is not hard.
  • Silt and debris can be easily removed from a hot water tank by periodic flushing. In fact if your water heater is quite noisy, it will probably be easier to remove un-wanted mineral deposits from the water tank than it will be later if you wait until the heater is no longer making much noise (because the mineral layer has solidified).

    Install a sediment filter on the incoming water supply to avoid this problem in the first place.
  • But lime or water scale are more difficult to remove from a water heater: manually scraping the tank bottom through the drain opening or use of a de-limer chemical will be needed. Below we describe these procedures. Readers should also see our discussion of mineral clogging of water piping, water heaters, and tankless coils, organized

    at HOT WATER IMPROVEMENTS.
  • Other gas fired water heater noises are discussed at GAS FLAME & NOISE DEFECTS.

    Also see BANGING BOOMING NOISE DIAGNOSIS & CURE
  • Boiling noises from the water heater - note that we're referring to an intermittent burbling or bubbling boiling sound.

    See our advice at POPPING WATER HEATER

    Watch out: If your water heater is actually boiling its temperature is at or over 100°C or 212°F (at sea level) it is too hot, unsafe, and is at risk of causing scalding burns.
  • Buzzing noises at a gas regulator on water heaters or other appliances may be due to a bad regulator or control.

    See GAS REGULATOR NOISES

    See BUZZING NOISE DIAGNOSIS - topic home
  • Clicking sounds in the water heater or geyser: probably thermal expansion among water heater parts or hot water distribution piping.

    Modest water heater clicking or tapping sounds may be considered normal if they're occurring in a heat trap installed in the hot water supply piping above / downstream from the water heater itself.

    A water heater heat trap is a device intended to prevent hot water from circulating or rising in the distribution piping before there is a call for hot water by opening a tap.

    Water heater heat trap details

    Hot water rises in vertical containers such as a water heater or cylinder as well as within vertical water heater piping. The heat from rising hot water can easily extend several feet or more past the water heater hot water outlet depending principally on the temperatures involved, the total rise of vertical hot water piping, and the absence of a water heater heat trap.

    Water heater manufacturers, such as AO Smith whose data we use here for example purposes, provide two types of heat trap inserts at the water heater hot water outlet at the top of the heater: an internal ball-type water heater heat trap or an internal flapper type water heater heat trap, selected depending on the water heater model.

    Typically the heat trap is incorporated in or inserted just below a short pipe nipple that is screwed into the water heater top at the hot water outlet as shown in our sketch below.

    There item #8 is a heat trap insert that is placed at the heater outlet before the 3/4" x 2" or 3" short nipple (#10) is installed.

    Heat traps are used on most tank-type water heaters, regardless of their energy source: electric, gas, oil, solar.

AO Smith water heater showing the location of the water heater heat trap (C) InspectApedia.com A.O. Smith


  • Water heater heat trap information source: A.O. Smith Electric Residential Water Heater Parts List [PDF] Models EES 30.40.52/66/80/120, Series 913, 915, 917, 920, 930, A.O. Smith Water Products Co., 5621 W. 115th St., Aslip IL 60803 USA, Tel: 1-800-433-2545, Website: www.hotwater.com, Email: parts@hotwater.com, retrieved 2018/09/07, original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/partslists/psd1762.pdf

    Clicking noises are normal during the ignition phase of gas-fired water heaters and gas fired tankless water heaters that use electron ignition - a feature on virtually all modern tankless water heaters and most new gas fired water heaters.

    Also check the routing of hot water piping: hot water pipes passing through too-tight openings may click, tap, or even squeak as the metal hot water pipes expand during hot water flow through them.

    Also see TICKING
  • Combustion noises at the water heater: these water heater noises include whooshing and roaring sounds

    GAS FLAME & NOISE DEFECTS
    and
    what I [DF] call indirect-combustion noises at water heaters such as chimney defects, control device vibration at the gas regulator, crackling and popping due to thermal expansion or due to water heater scale formation.

    Also see WATER HEATER NOISE RESEARCH
  • Crackling sounds at the water heater: see Banging water heaters at the top of this list. Most likely there's a scale problem in the water heater.

    Crackling on an electric water heater may be caused by scale formation on the heating elements themselves while in gas and oil fired calorifiers or heaters the scale problem is probably on the bottom of the water heater tank. Thicker scale means worse banging, crackling, knocking, popping sound. The heater needs to be de-scaled.

    See WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE

    Also see our discussion of crackling noises caused by an aluminum hydroxide slime formation in the water heater, discussed in this alphabetically-organized list below at Rumbling Sounds.
  • Humming water Heater Noises:

    Humming sounds from an electric water heater is most-often caused by turbulence in water inside the heater as water flows around its one or two electric heating elements. Electric water heater experts suggest trying to slightly tighten the electric heater element in its mount to stop or reduce its vibration.

    By turning the (loop-shaped) electric heater element in position inside the heater you are changing the direction of water flow across that element as water enters and leaves the heater.

    That may stop the noise.

    Humming water heater fix tip: If it is impossible to rotate the heating element clockwise (rightie-tightie) you can still make an adjustment by loosening the element - turning it counterclockwise. But watch out for leaks.

    If leaks start you'll need to drain the heater, remove the element, apply new teflon paste or tape to the treads, and position it anew in its mount. At that point, just tighten the element enough that it's secure and not leaking (on re-fill of the heater).

    As soon as the water heater humming noise stops, quit there. If the noise is still present you'll be able to rotate the element 1/8 of a turn at a time until the humming heater noise stops.

    Humming electric motors can be the cause of a humming water heater whose heat source is an oil burner. A humming electric motor is probably not running, unable to start, and should be turned OFF immediately.

    Then see ELECTRIC MOTOR NOISE DIAGNOSIS

    Humming or vibrating gas regulators can be the cause of a humming gas fired water heater.

    See GAS REGULATOR NOISES

    Also see
    HUMMING NOISES in BUILDINGS - topic home

    Reader Question
    : high pitched humming at electric water heater2016/08/21 Azcabin said:

    Our new electric water heater (3 months old) is making a very loud high pitched humming noise, any idea why?

    Reply: electric water heater element vibration? Try rotating the heater element 1/8 turn.

    I don't know for sure what the humming is, Az.

    On a few water heater models, particularly those using a rather long heating element, water flowing across the element may cause it to vibrate and may generate a humming sound.

    You can probably diagnose this cause of humming electric water heater noise by turning off water into the heater or by making sure that nobody in the building is running hot water. If no water is running through the heater and the noise stops, you've found the probable cause.

    If the humming IS traced to the heating element, ask your installer to inspect the element installation; simply tightening it or rotating it as little as 1/8 of a turn should stop the humming noise.

    Watch out: left-unattended, a humming vibrating electric water heater element might begin to leak at its mount.

    Is there a circulator on your water heating system? If so check the pump for noise.

    Watch out: a failing or mis-wired electrical circuit could cause buzzing or humming - that would be unsafe.
  • Are you sure it's really humming and not rumbling or hissing - sounds associated with scale deposits?
  • Try turning power to the heater off, wait 5 minutes, then turn it on. Let me know what you observe.
  • Finally: a new heater and its installation should be under warranty so it makes sense to call the installer for help.
  • Hissing water heater or water cylinder noises: If your water heater is an electric unit, these same mineral deposits can cause a hissing noise when the heating electrodes are operating.

    For both of the noises above, start by reviewing the discussion following below and titled Why Should You Remove the Scale Deposits, Silicates, and Silt from Your Water Heater Tank?
  • Knocking sounds in the water heater: see Banging water heaters at the top of this list. Most likely there's a scale problem in the water heater.
  • Popping, banging, crackling, gurgling, ringing, rapid surging boiling water, rumbling in the water heater or calorifier: If you hear loud popping, cracking, or clanking noises from your hot water heater when it is operating, the cause might be mineral deposits which have accumulated on the bottom of the water heater tank interior surface.

    If your water supply is hard (see DETECT HARD WATER), the minerals in the water tend to precipitate out at the hottest place in the plumbing system. Often this means that the water heater itself will accumulate solid precipitate of minerals.

    Our photograph near the top of this article shows our measurement of the thickness of mineral scale removed from the bottom of a six-year-old gas-fired water heater - more than 1/2 cm in thickness! The "lime" scale that forms in water heater tanks is composed principally of calcium and magnesium carbonate.

    Also see our discussion of crackling, rumbling, popping water heater noises caused by an aluminum hydroxide slime formation in the water heater, discussed in this alphabetically-organized list at Rumbling Sounds.

    The fix: WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE
  • Pounding sounds at the water heater: Usually from scale formation; see the causes and cures at Banging water heaters at the top of this list.

    Also see our discussion of crackling, rumbling, popping water heater noises caused by an aluminum hydroxide slime formation in the water heater, discussed in this alphabetically-organized list at Rumbling Sounds.
  • Rumbling sounds at the water heater: Rumbling noises at a water heater are most-often due to either scale build-up in the water heater (mostly on the heater's bottom surface) or due to build-up of aluminum hydroxide "gel" (slime) in the water heater.

    Pounding causes due to scale are discussed at Banging water heaters at the top of this list. A scale problem in the water heater is the most-common cause of this noise complaint.

    See WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE for a detailed water heater de-liming procedure.

    Aluminum hydroxide build-up can occur in a water heater and cause crackling, gurgling, popping, rumbling noises in the water heater when the water supply has a high pH (pH of 8 or higher) and where the sacrificial anode in the water heater is made of aluminum.

    The high pH of alkaline water reacts chemically with aluminum to form aluminum hydroxide (Al OH) that appears as a blue, gray or green slimy substance collecting on the bottom of the water tank as well as on the surface of the sacrificial anode.

    You may see small globules of this ALOH slime when you open the water heater drain, and this aluminum hydroxide slime may also show up as a clogging goop in the aerators or strainers at faucets in the building.

    The cure for ALOH deposits in a water heater is usually just flushing out the calorifier (geyser, cylinder) (WATER HEATER DEBRIS FLUSH), and replacing the sacrificial anode with a magnesium alloy anode instead.

    If both aluminum hydroxide gel slime and mineral scale are present, you need to remove the scale as well as flush out the ALOH.

    Diagnostic tip: if the rumbling noise is occurring in a relatively new water heater, less than six months old, look for ALOH slime clogging as that problem, traced to a too-alkaline water supply, shows up pretty quickly after a new water heater is installed.

    If the rumbling noise did not start until the water calorifier was a year or more old then it's more-likely that the problem is due to mineral scale formation.

    Of course both problems can be present in the same water heater.

    See ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATERS you'll need to remove the scale using the water heater de-liming procedure we give above.

    See AOS Bulletin 14 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE [PDF] for a description of cures for aluminum hydroxide slime clogging if no mineral scaling is also present, retrieved 2017/11/17 original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin14.pdf
  • Screeching or screaming water heater sounds: look for a partly-closed control valve at the water heater inlet or anywhere in the building piping system.
Shrieking Bosch tankless water heater before repair (C) Daniel Friedman
  • Shrieking screaming Bosch Compact MiniMAXX gas-fired tankless water heater - in addition to bangs and rattles (scale in water heaters) in 2017 we investigated and obtained repair help from Bosch for a shrieking tankless water heater installed in San Miguel de Allende.

    The sound was traced to a resonant frequency air or exhaust movement interacting between combustion air intake and exhaust flue outlet gases.

    Two diagnostic recordings of resonant whistling or shrieking water heater sounds are given just below.

    BOSCH MiniMAXX CALENTADOR de GAS Resonancia Shrieking WHISTLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS STEP 1 [MP4] 20MB. In this recording we take initial steps to diagnose the cause of a loud, horrible whistling screaming at the tankless water heater. You'll see me partly-closing first the heater's outlet valve, then the heater's inlet water valve - no no avail.

    BOSCH MiniMAXX CALENTADOR de GAS Resonancia Shrieking WHISTLE NOISE vs Temperature Setting - DIAGNOSIS STEP 2 [MP4] 11MB - shown above. In this recording we show that setting the temperature up at the water heater causes loud shrieking.

    This Bosch heater includes a variable-speed burner and fan that induces more combustion air and increases the tankless water heater's output either when the hot water usage rate goes up in the building or when the water temperature is set to a higher level.

    At the increased demand or temperature settings as air and exhaust flow through the heater speeds-up, a high-pitched resonant frequency screaming ensues. Partly covering the air intake at the top of the water heater stops the noise- confirming that the probable noise cause is right at that area of the heater.

    The Bosch service technicians found and "fixed" the shrieking sound problem by a combination of re-sizing of the exhaust flue vent connector at the water heater and a partial blockage of the combustion air intake at the water heater top. [Second photo above and close-up photo below]
Cure for screaming tankless water heater in San Miguel de Allende (C) Daniel Friedman

Watch out: don't even think of trying to fix this noise yourself. Making a mistake risks fatal carbon monoxide poisoning. Consult Bosch customer service if you are having noise problems with your tankless water heater.

Other shrieking screaming sounds in and around buildings are discussed at WATER SUPPLY PIPE WHISTLE NOISE
and also

at SCREAMING or whistling or shrieking A/C compressor/condenser unit sounds - warning about high pitched sound from the compressor/condenser unit

Also see GUIAS PARA EQUIPMIENTO EN MEXICO

  • Sizzling or hissing sounds at a water heater, geyser, calorifier, cylinder are usually caused by either condensation on the gas burner or by water leaks in the heater that are dripping onto the burner.

    Water heater leaks: Watch out: take care to find the actual leak point at the water heater as the type of leak has different and important implications.

    You can distinguish between a water heater condensation problem and a leaky water heater by a few simple steps given at at WATER HEATER LEAK REPAIR
  • Ticking sounds or tapping sounds in the water heater: Usually thermal expansion. See Clicking water heater sounds earlier in this list.
  • Vibrating sounds at the water heater - see HUMMING and also see COMBUSTION noise traced to a humming gas regulator.
  • Whistling noise at a water heater - can be caused by air deflection at a combustion air intake or by water velocity in water piping.

    See WATER HEATER WHISTLE NOISE - screaming tankless water heater diagnosis

Relationship of Hard Water to Water Heater Noises

The hard water mineral deposits tend to collect as a hard skin on the bottom of the heater, interfering with heat transfer, increasing operating cost, and over longer periods, possibly weakening the bottom of the water heater itself.

Mineral deposits also accumulate on the electrodes of an electric water heater, eventually leading to the failure of the heating electrode. If you never remove the scale from a water heater tank the clanking or cracking noise heard at the water heater during operation may eventually cease when the scale solidifies, no longer trapping hot water and interfering with its movement upwards in the water tank.

However the development of a thick lime or scale layer in the bottom of a water heater also reduces the water heater tank life.

  • Water heater manufacturers recommend flushing the heater monthly to remove silt, and where water is hard, regular de liming of the water tank - steps which in our experience we see that almost no one does.

    With experience you may discover that flushing is required less often (or more often) in your area.
  • On occasion when a heater fails (or in rare multi-defect cases, explodes), the leak and failure occur at the bottom of the tank, leading to

    a BLEVE explosion and a water tank that becomes a rocket.

Other Water Heater Problems Caused by Hard Water & Scale Deposits are discussed just below.

Cures for water heater scale or lime or mineral deposits

Why Should You Remove the Scale Deposits, Silicates, and Silt from Your Water Heater Tank?

Water heater scale after removal (C) Daniel Friedman

Our photo (left) shows chunks of water heater scale on the ground after removal from the water heater.

A.O. Smith gives six reasons (here we expand and add to them) for water heater tank scale removal, and the company points out that the reasons for scale removal and indeed the procedure for scale removal is (almost) the same regardless of the energy source: electric, gas, oil, solar water heaters.

Our "exception" is that solar water heaters and electric water heaters may have specific internal components (such as electric water heater electrodes) that will also need to be de-scaled or even replaced. [1]

Noisy water heater operation: Water heater noises, as we described above, may be the first thing people notice when the water tank scale layer has become thick enough to interfere with good water heater operation.

But A.O. Smith and other water heater manufacturers cite additional reasons why removing water heater scale is important.

Clean the water heater tank to reduce water heater noise.

Longer water heater "on" time & slower water heat-up rate: you can reduce the cost of making hot water with your oil, gas, or electric-fired water heater by removing scale from the tank bottom.

The scale layer on the tank bottom (or on an electric water heater's electrodes) interferes with heat transfer into the hot water.

This means that the water heater will have to operate longer (and you will spend more on hot water costs) than necessary to re-heat incoming water.

Clean your water heater tank to reduce your water heating cost by improving heat transfer into the water and correspondingly shortening the water heater "on" cycle time.

High water heater costs to operate, repair, replace:  for the same reasons as above: running the water heater longer just to get the water hot enough means higher water heater operating expense.

In addition to higher energy costs to heat the water, unnecessary heater replacement, and in the case of electric water heaters, early failure of the heating elements are common results of heavy scale problems.

Hot water quantity has diminished - not enough hot water: by slowing heat transfer into the hot water in the water tank, the apparent hot water quantity will also be reduced, because incoming cold water is not heated as rapidly when occupants are drawing hot water out of the tank.

Thus the incoming cold more quickly dilutes and cools the hot water that remains in the tank during use. Clean the water heater tank to increase hot water quantity.

Extend the water heater life: because scale on the water heater tank bottom insulates the tank bottom from the water inside the tank, the bottom of an oil or gas fired water heater will become hotter as the scale layer gets thicker.

These increased temperatures weaken the water heater tank bottom and shorten the life of the water heater. Similarly, scale deposits on the electrodes in an electric hot water heater shorten the life of the electrodes. Clean the hot water tank regularly to extend its life.

Protect water heater warranty: if a water heater tank fails the manufacturer may not honor the water heater's warranty if the failure is due to the accumulation of excessive scale inside of the water heater tank.

Water heater warranties typically indicate that the tank is warranted against leaks due to rust, corrosion, or chemical action of the water but the warranty will exclude a tank failure due to scale.

User dissatisfaction with the water heater because of less hot water, slower hot water recovery, and higher hot water costs lead to unhappy building occupants who may have no idea that a water heater scale problem is the cause. If dissatisfaction leads a consumer to replace a water heater that could have just been de-scaled, there may also be unnecessary heater replacement expense.

How Often to Remove Scale Deposits from a Water Heater

When the lime thickness reaches the hot water tank drain, there will be about one inch of mineral deposit on the tank bottom. If the water tank has a cleanout opening, when the lime thickness reaches that opening the mineral deposit thickness will be about 2". When you have observed the length of time required for lime to accumulate in your water heater you can set the appropriate maintenance schedule.

How the water heater scale is removed

See  WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE for a detailed water heater de-liming procedure. A summary of the de-scaling procedure is just below.

Step 1: Flush the Hot Water Tank to Remove Silt & Debris

The first step in curing water heater noises or poor hot water quantity is to turn off and flush out the water heater.

See WATER HEATER FLUSH PROCEDURE for the full article on the detailed procedure for flushing out water heaters to remove scale, dirt, or debris - a step that can increase hot water quantity, temperature, and water heater life.

Watch out: don't tackle this water heater cleanout project on a Sunday night when you can't call a plumber or buy a replacement part. Water heaters, their heating source (oil or gas burner or electricity or solar hot water), and particularly their relief valves include critical safety components.

Do not modify or remove relief valves, chimney connections, draft hoods, etc. as you may create dangerous conditions. Turn off all electrical and or gas power to the water heater and let it cool.

This means turning off electricity that controls the water heater oil burner or electric heating elements, or for gas fired water heaters, turning off the gas supply to the device.

Additional tips on draining a water heater tank can be found

at ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS

Step 2: Remove Scale Deposits from a Water Heater Tank - Scraping the Bottom of the Hot Water Tank

Water heater being flushed (C) Daniel Friedman

The second step in curing water heater noise or insufficient hot water is to remove scale or lime from the water heater tank. If the unit is an electric water heater, you'll also need to remove scale from the electric water heater elements.

See WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE for the full article on the detailed procedure for removing lime and water heater scale.

Safety Warning: never turn on a water heater's heat source before the hot water tank has been re-filled. Otherwise you may damage the heater or create a dangerous condition.

Be sure the water heater pressure and temperature relief valve is properly installed and is the proper type.

See RELIEF VALVES - TP VALVES.

Step 3: Prevent Scale Deposits in Water Heater Tanks or on Electric Water Heater Electrodes - Scale formation in water heaters and methods of prevention

The third step in stopping water heater noises, extending water heater life and increasing the amount of hot water that the heater produces, is to prevent un-wanted scale or lime deposits in the water heater tank or on an electric water heater's electrodes.

The rate of deposition of scale inside of a water heater tank depends on

  • The hardness of the incoming cold water.

    See MEASURE WATER HARDNESS for details about how water hardness is measured.
  • The temperature to which the water is being heated. Higher water temperatures cause minerals to be deposited faster than lower water temperatures.
  • The water quantity used: the more water that flows through the water heater (in gallons of use per day,) the faster it will be clogged with minerals or debris.

At WATER HEATER SCALE PREVENTION we discuss in detail and provide research on the factors determining the rate at which scale and lime form in water heaters or on water heater electrodes.

How Mineral Deposits and Heating May Weaken a Water Heater Tank Bottom, Contributing to BLEVE Explosion

BLEVEs or boiling liquid expanding vapor explosions are discussed

at BLEVE EXPLOSIONS.

Excerpts are below

Water heater tank explosions are rare thanks to the widespread requirement for and use of pressure and temperature relief safety valves. The photo (left) shows a hole in the roof made when a water heater exploded, becoming a rocket that passed up through the building.

But if the safety valve has been damaged, modified, or even omitted (as we saw on our neighbor's water heater), that condition, combined with overheating can cause a water tank to explode, creating a BLEVE - boiling liquid vapor explosion that releases tremendous force and causing extreme damage to a building.

Because repeated heating of the water tank bottom may combine with other conditions (such as corrosion or excessive heating due to mineral deposits on the tank bottom) to produce a weak water heater tank bottom, that is the part more likely to fail in an overheat and overpressure condition.

A failure at the water tank bottom may explain why a BLEVE can produce a water tank explosion that behaves like a rocket, sending the water tank skyrocketing up through a building.

Cures for Hard Water that Clogs Hot Water Tanks, Tankless Coils, and Plumbing Pipes

  1. WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE exactly how to get rid of water heater scale, a common cause of water heater noises.
  2. WATER HEATER SCALE PREVENTION - how to avoid scale formation in water heaters
  3. More water heater noises and some recommendations are in the Residential Gas and Electric Water Heater Handbook [PDF] provided by A.O. Smith and linked-to

    at REFERENCES

Water Heater Noise & Combustion Noise Research

  • A.O. Smith, NOISY WATER HEATERS (Bulletin 1) [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17, original source: https://www.hotwater.com/resources/product-literature/bulletins/noisy-water-heaters/

    This brief publication on noisy water heaters lists six common water heater noises or symptoms and their usual cause and offers six technical bulletins offering more-detailed advice on curing these water heater noises.

    However the original article's list some of the "causes" opposite "symptoms" is a bit confusing. Here we have sorted out that information into what is in our OPINION the relationships between water heater sound and its most-common cause.
  • WATER HEATER CRACKLING due to condensation dripping on the burner [expect this only on gas fired water heaters] -

    see
    AOS Bulletin 13 MINERAL BUILD-UP [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17 original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin13.pdf

    and
    AOS Bulletin 14 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17 original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin14.pdf

    and
    AOS Bulletin 15 CONDENSATION [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17 original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin15.pdf
  • WATER HEATER POUNDING - see AOS Bulletin 11: WATER HAMMER [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17, original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin11.pdf

    Also see details at WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE at InspectApedia.com]
  • WATER HEATER POPPING due to abrupt stopping of water flow
    See AOS Bulletins 13 & 14 given above.
  • WATER HEATER RUMBLING due to aluminum hydroxide gel in the tank
    See AOS Bulletins 13 & 14 given above.
  • WATER HEATER SIZZLING
    see

    AOS Bulletin 51 PUDDLE ON FLOOR
    [at the water heater] [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17, original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin51.pdf
    and see AOS Bulletin 15 given above
  • WATER HEATER TICKING due to heat trap balls rattling in a pipe nipple [sic] -

    see AOS Bulletin 12: HEAT TRAPS [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17, original source: https://www.hotwater.com/lit/bulletin/bulletin12.pdf
  • Bradford White, INTERNAL NOISES IN WATER HEATER (#123),[PDF] Bradford White Corporation 725 Talamore Dr, Ambler, PA 19002 USA, Tel: 215-641-9400, Website: www.bradfordwhitecorporation.com retrieved 2017/11/17, original source: http://www.bradfordwhite.com/internal-noises-water-heater-123

    This brief publication mentions water heater rumbling, bubbling, surging, or boiling noises and explain how sediment in a water heater contributes to annoying water heater noises.

    The company also notes that scale on the heating element of an electric calorifier or geyser (synonyms for water heater) can cause a water heater singing or hissing sound. Solutions range from de-scaling the heater element to replacing it.
  • Burch, Jay, M. Hoeschele, D. Springer, and A. Rudd. Preliminary Modeling, Testing, and Analysis of a Gas Tankless Water Heater: Preprint. No. NREL/CP-550-42917. National Renewable Energy Lab.(NREL), Golden, CO (United States), 2008.
    Abstract:

    Today's gas tankless water heaters offer significant energy savings over conventional gas storage tank water heaters, but savings depends on the draw pattern. A one-node model incorporating heat exchanger mass is used to address this and other issues.

    Key model parameters are determined from least-squares regression on short-term data, including burner efficiency, thermal capacitance, and thermal loss coefficient. The calibrated model agrees with data to ~5% on Qgas, with temperature RMS deviation of ~4..deg..C.

    Efficiency with a standard realistic draw is 71%, compared to 81% predicted from standard energy-factors. Adding a small tank controlled by the tankless heater solves issues of oscillations with solar pre-heat, low-flow and hot-water-delay issues. Future work includes model refinements and developing optimal data protocols for model parameter extraction.
  • Putnam, Abbott, and Lynn Faulkner. "Overview of combustion noise." J. ENERGY. 7, no. 6 (1983): 458-469. Authors: at Battelle's Columbus Laboratories, Columbus Ohio.
    Introduction excerpts:

    Combustion noise was discussed as early as 1802 in a technical note on singing flames. ... Three specific areas of combustion noise are discussed in some detail, namely, combustion roar, combustion-driven oscillations, and pulse combination.

    Combustion roar, in the absence of acoustic distortion effects, is characterized by a smooth noise spectrum related to the reacting chemistry of the flame and the turbulence level of the combustion region.

    Combustion-driven oscillations are characterized by a discrete frerquency and a feedback cycle to maointain the oscillation.

    Pulse combustion is the positive application of combustion-driven oscillations. In addition, some other combustion noise phenomena are discussed such as the interaction with vortex shedding and the combustion amplification of flow phenomena.

The articles at this website will answer most questions about diagnosing and curing noisy domestic water heaters and about the procedure to remove mineral deposits, lime, water scale, silicates, sulfates, aluminates, or silt and sand from a water heater tank.

Original post: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Heater_Noises.php

How much does it cost to install a water heater?

There are many variables to consider including the type and size of water heater. It's always best to consult with a licensed plumbing contractor to determine the best solution to meet your needs.

What is included in a water heater replacement?

A water heater replacement typically includes the cost of the new water heater, delivery to your home, supplies, removal and haul-away of the old water heater, and installation and testing of your new water heater.

Property Consideration

HOT WATER TEMPERATURE SAFETY: What to know?

HOT WATER TEMPERATURE SAFETY

Scalding, Legionella and Hot Water Heater Temperature Safety Solutions

Storage type water heaters are a reliable source of hot water and are used in most households in the U.S. and Canada. Even with advanced heating technologies that exist today, there are still technological limits to controlling hot water tank temperatures using a water heater.

There is a general misconception that a water heater’s thermostatic control can regulate the water temperature at the point-of-use. However, the water heater thermostatic control is typically at the bottom of the water heater, and does not sense the water temperature at the end point-of-use, which can pose a scald hazard for showers, faucets and other points in a household when water is too hot.

Hot water scalding is one of the major reasons why various plumbing codes and manufacturers require that thermostatic mixing valves be installed with water heaters to regulate water temperature at point-of-use.

Scalding Facts & Prevention

Keeping water in hot water storage tanks at a temperature that is considered sanitary requires raising the temperature of water to at least 140°F (60°C). But, at 140°F (60°C), water can cause third-degree burns in children in one second and in adults in five seconds.

The American Burn Association states that approximately 21,000 child injuries are directly related to dangerously hot tap water in residences—that’s 65% of all hospitalized burn-related injuries in children under 4 years old1. The answer to preventing harmful water temperatures is to store distributable hot water at a high temperature and temper it to a safer temperature before distribution to the fixture.

Cash Acme’s thermostatic mixing valves mix hot and cold water together upon exiting the storage tank to deliver water at a controlled temperature of 120°F or less to prevent scalding.

Legionella Facts & Prevention

Legionella is an aquatic bacteria that thrives in warm water environments and is the cause of Legionnaires Disease. It is commonly found in hot water heaters, potable water supplies, hot tubs, cooling towers, fountains, swimming pools, etc. and multiplies in conditions especially between 68 – 122 °F. The Legionella bacteria can spread to humans when breathed in.

An estimated 22K cases of Legionnaires disease are reported in the U.S. each year2. It is known to cause fever, chills, and a cough, which can be dry or may produce sputum. Some patients also have muscle aches, headaches, tiredness, loss of appetite, and, occasionally, diarrhea. Legionella may also cause cases of pneumonia that may be difficult to diagnose. Of the approximately 2.4 million cases of pneumonia that are diagnosed each year in the United States, about 18,000 are confirmed as Legionnaires Disease and up to 600,000 cases of Legionnaires Disease are misdiagnosed as pneumonia because the hospitals do not perform tests for Legionella.3

Improved design and maintenance of cooling towers, plumbing systems and hot water heaters to limit the growth and spread of bacteria are the foundations of Legionella prevention.

How the Issue is Being Addressed Around the World

The answer to preventing both Legionnaires disease and hot water scalding is to store distributable hot water at a high temperature and temper it to a safer temperature before distribution to the fixture.

A water temperature of 120°F does not kill the Legionella bacteria; a hot water temperature of 140°F is required at which Legionellae dies in 32 minutes. Hence it is recommended that the water heater be set at a safe hot water temperature of 140°F. The Legionella disinfection range is 158 – 176 °F.

Several countries around the world, including Canada and many in Europe, have adopted regulations requiring water to be stored at a higher temperature and delivered at 120°F or lower. The aggressiveness with which countries have addressed this issue indicates the importance of water storage safety. In fact, according to the Safe Kids Worldwide Campaign, “all code-making bodies at the [U.S.] national and regional level have established plumbing standards for newly constructed homes and residential units requiring anti-scald technology and a maximum water heater temperature of 120 degrees F.”4

In-home Solutions

Cash Acme Thermostatic Mixing Valves (TMVs) provide safe, in-home water solutions to both inhibit legionella tank growth and prevent water heater scalding and burns. Our TMVs allow water to be stored at high temperatures at the source (hot water heater) and delivered at safe temperatures at the point-of-use (sinks, lavatories, bathtubs or multiple fixtures such as gang showers). By placing a thermostatic mixing valve on a water heater, the heater’s thermostat can be turned up to a higher temperature setting to avoid growth of bacteria. The mixing valve then takes the hot water from the newly set heater and mixes it with cold water until it can be released from the valve at a safe 120°F temperature.

Additionally, the Cash Acme Tank Booster valve can double the hot water delivery in a system, as well as provide all of the other safeguards that our TMV products supply.

References:
1 American Burn Association http://ameriburn.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/scaldinjuryeducatorsguide.pdf
2 CDC cases reported from 2000 – 2009: http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6032a3.htm
3 http://www.LegionellaPrevention.org
4 https://www.safekids.org/sites/default/files/documents/skw_burns_fact_sheet_feb_2015.pdf

How can I reduce the risk of Legionnaires’ disease in my home?

Nine recently confirmed cases of Legionnaires’ disease in Hopkins, MN reminded me of an old blog post that I thought would make for a timely re-blog, along with some updated information. First, here’s the story about the recent cases in Hopkins: http://www.startribune.com/mdh-hopkins-warehouse-and-fountain-under-investigation-as-possible-source-of-legionnaires/393567731/. As mentioned in the story, Legionnaires’ disease resembles a severe case of pneumonia and is spread by inhaling the fine spray from water sources containing Legionella bacteria. In your home, the source of that bacteria could be your water heater, especially if you turn your water heater temperature down to the “vacation” setting when leaving for extended periods of time. The people who are most at risk for Legionnaires’ disease are those over 50, smokers, or those with certain medical conditions.

According to LegionellaPrevention.org, legionella bacteria can grow at temperatures from 68° F to 122° F, but the ideal growth range is between 95° F and 115° F. When it comes to preventing legionella bacteria growth, hot water is better. Legionella bacteria cannot multiply at temperatures above 122° F, and are killed within 32 minutes at 140° F. So crank up the water heater as high as it will go, right? No, of course not. That would create a scald hazard. Water heater manufacturers put a warning on water heaters saying the water temperature should not exceed 125° F to help prevent “severe burns instantly or death from scalds”. Their words, not mine.

So what’s the perfect temperature for your water heater?

Unfortunately, there’s no simple answer. The American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group released a white paper many years ago on this topic, which essentially says that there is no perfect temperature to set your water heater to. Part of the reason is that traditional tank-style water heaters don’t keep the water in the tank at an exact temperature; there is a temperature “band” that tank water heaters maintain. At the beginning of a heating cycle, a water heater set to 120°-ish might start at 115° F, and might get up to 125° F at the end of its heating cycle. There’s more to it than just that, but the point is that water heaters do not produce constant temperatures.

If the water in a tank is kept below scalding temperatures, there is a potential for Legionella bacteria growth. Ideally, the temperature in a water heater tank should be cranked way up to 140° F or higher, but now we’re back to the scald hazard thing. One solution is to have a hot water tempering valve installed for the entire home.

This valve would be installed right at the hot water outlet of the water heater. It would allow the water heater to be cranked up to a scalding 140° F, which would be sufficient to kill bacteria and would extend the capacity of the hot water tank, while at the same time reducing the temperature of all of the hot water throughout the house. Click the following link for more information about these devices: http://media.wattswater.com/F-MXV.pdf . While these devices won’t guarantee safe water temperatures at every fixture, they’ll get you a lot closer.

If you want more hot water out of your water heater and you want to reduce the risk of Legionella bacteria growth, hire a plumber to install one of these mixing valves at your water heater and turn the temperature up on your water heater. I should also mention that point-of-use thermostatic mixing valves should ideally be installed at the faucets for the highest level of safety… but I’m pretty sure I’ve never seen a home fully outfitted with those.


Safety and Law

6 Important Safety Facts Regarding Hot Water Scalds And Burn Injuries


Hot water from the home's faucets and sinks can cause serious injury to members of the family. Underestimating the risks posed by burns and scalding wounds only makes members of the household more vulnerable to injury. The following facts about scalds and burns can help illustrate the dangers of improperly heated water in the home.

1. Kids and seniors face the highest risk
Seniors and kids under the age of 5 are especially vulnerable to serious scald injury. A thinner dermis poses an extra threat of deeper burns in children, while limited flexibility can sometimes put seniors in danger with regards to nearby hot water.

2. Overheated water is a common problem at home
Ironically, many homeowners that balk at the idea of burn-related injuries in the home are at the greatest risk. Over 40 percent of inspected urban homes were found to have water heaters set at or above 140 degrees. Setting water temperatures to 120 degrees will increase safety and heating efficiency simultaneously.

3. Serious burns can occur in seconds
Burn wounds caused by a home's water supply can occur quickly. In fact, 140 degree water can cause a third-degree burn after just five seconds of exposure.

4. Cool water is better than ice for temporary treatment
Resist your instinct to ice a serious burn or scald, as treating the injury with ice actually risks worsening the burn. A wet compress or a flow of cool water will do the trick until you can schedule a medical visit.

5. Scalding injuries are mostly preventable
While hundreds of thousands of scald wounds occur each year, 75 percent of burn injuries in children are preventable. Families taking a proactive approach toward preventing burn injuries will see rapid results in the form of fewer burn accidents.

6. Going tankless can eliminate scald injuries
Often performing maintenance on an aging water heater simply increases risks of a scalding accident. Electric tankless water heaters have more precise, reliable heat controls to help prevent burn injuries.

SOURCE: https://webflow.com/design/hot-water-safety

What steps should I follow to safely shut off my water heater?

Shutting off the gas and water to a failed water heater should be done with safety in mind. Here are the safest steps, in the proper sequence, to accomplish this:

  1. Turn Off the Power: Before doing anything with the water heater, turn off the power supply. If it’s an electric water heater, switch off the circuit breaker or fuse at the electrical panel. If it’s a gas water heater, set the gas control valve to the “Pilot” position.
  2. Turn Off the Gas Supply: For a gas water heater, locate the gas supply valve on the gas line leading to the water heater. This valve is typically located near the water heater or along the gas line. Turn the valve to the “Off” position. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable doing this, it’s advisable to contact a professional plumber or gas technician.
  3. Turn Off the Cold Water Supply: Locate the cold water supply valve, which is typically located above or near the water heater. Turn this valve to the “Off” or “Closed” position. This stops the flow of water into the tank.
  4. Open a Hot Water Faucet: To relieve pressure in the tank, open a hot water faucet in your home. This helps prevent a vacuum from forming in the tank, which can impede drainage.
  5. Drain the Water Heater: Connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. Position the other end of the hose to safely drain the water, ideally outside or into a floor drain. Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain completely. Be cautious as the water may be hot.
  6. Ventilate the Area: Ensure the area is well-ventilated to dissipate any lingering gas fumes if it’s a gas water heater. Open doors and windows to allow fresh air to flow through the space.
  7. Contact a Professional: After safely shutting off the gas and water and draining the tank, it’s recommended to contact a professional plumber to inspect and repair the water heater or replace it as necessary. They can also safely relight the pilot light on a gas water heater if needed.

Safety is of utmost importance when dealing with gas appliances and water heaters. If you are unsure about any of these steps or have concerns about gas safety, it is best to contact a qualified professional to handle the situation and address any potential issues with your water heater.