Traditional heat trap loops (sometimes referred to as goosenecks) take advantage of thermal convection. Hot water will rise and cold water will sink. By adding a U-shaped dip in the pipeline, the hot water gets stuck at the top of the loop while the cold is able to pass through the dip and enter the tank.
Although there are some minor variations in design for nipples (ex: balls vs flaps), the functionality is the same. Two small fittings are installed where your pipes enter and exit the tank. A Teflon ball sits in the fitting for the hot water outlet, while a polypropylene ball sits in the one for the cold water inlet.
When your water heater is in standby mode (i.e. you’re not drawing water), the balls rest in from of the valves and prevent heat from escaping (convection). As you turn on a hot water tap, the balls are lifted out of their seating to allow unobstructed flow and drop back down when you turn the tap off.
Using either a heat trap loop or heat trap nipple can reduce wasted heat by as much as 60 percent. That really adds up when the bills come in. In addition, many state and local ordinances now require heat traps.
Another advantage to using nipples is that they’re dielectric, meaning they reduce the amount of corrosion to a steel tank when connected to a different metal (such as copper). Considering the relatively low cost for heat traps and simple installation, there’s no reason you SHOULDN’T. It may even extend the life of your anode rod.
Nipple kits are widely available online and at most hardware stores that carry water heater parts (such as anodes). We suggest investing in Rheem heat traps, although other brands such as AO Smith and Bradford White are also good. Installation is incredibly easy.
Shut off your tank and drain it by about two gallons. Remove the connection nuts from the existing nipples and apply some teflon taped to the trap nipples for some extra insulation and a better seal. Then you can simply insert the trap nipples and reconnect everything. The whole process can take as little as five minutes, excluding drainage time.
No component will be without issues, and water heater heat traps are no exception. Many plumbers prefer to bend pipe into goosenecks instead of buying prefabs to reduce the risk of blockage. Heat trap loops can also fail if not at a minimum diameter.
Problems with nipples are more common if you have a recirculation loop installed. The most common of these is noise from the balls. Flap models are quieter as a rule and are less likely to cause a reduction of water flow by getting stuck.
Improperly installed heat traps may also cause leaking at the connection at the top of the tank. Most often, retightening and/or adding a bit of teflon tape will solve the issue.
The good news is that heat trap nipple removal is just as easy as the initial installation, and you can often fix problems yourself. As blockage is most often caused by sediment or algae growth, regularly flushing your hot water tank and checking the anode rod for signs of decay will make these issues less likely.
Original post: https://www.waterheaterhub.com/water-heater-heat-traps/
Installing a gas water heater as a DIY homeowner can be risky if not done correctly. Some of the highest risk aspects associated with DIY installation of a gas water heater include:
To minimize these risks, it’s always advisable to hire a professional licensed plumber to handle the installation of a water heater. They have the expertise, tools, and knowledge to ensure that the installation is safe, code-compliant, and free from the risks associated with DIY installation. Additionally, professional installation often comes with warranties and peace of mind.
A new water heater can potentially cause smelly water and a rotten egg smell in the hot water if there is an issue with the water quality of the water source.
Here are some reasons why you may experience a rotten egg smell in your hot water, especially after the installation of a new water heater:
It’s important to note that these issues can also happen in older water heaters as well, and not only in new ones. To address this problem, you should have a licensed professional inspect the installation, complete a water quality test, check for the presence of sulfur bacteria or high levels of sulfates, and test the water source. They will also check the anode rod and the plumbing. Based on their findings, they will recommend the necessary steps to eliminate the smell and prevent it from reoccurring.
NOTE: Water quality is a fluid and dynamic state that changes continually. As water quality changes, the needed solutions must also change and adapt if perfect water quality is desired.
When well water is present and/or iron-eating bacteria is present, an aluminum anode rod is typically considered to be a better option than a magnesium anode rod.
Here’s why an aluminum anode rod is considered to be a better option for homes with well water:
It’s important to note that even though aluminum anode rods are more resistant to corrosion in well water and water with iron-eating bacteria, it’s still important to regularly check and replace them to ensure that the water heater tank is protected. Additionally, you should consult with a plumber or water treatment professional to determine the best course of action for your specific well water or iron-eating bacteria situation.
Magnesium and aluminum anode rods are both used in water heaters as a means of protecting the tank from corrosion. However, they have some important differences as explained here.
Here are some important differences to consider regarding magnesium and aluminum anode rods in your water heater:
In summary, the main difference between magnesium and aluminum anode rods is that magnesium anode rods are more efficient in soft water and have a shorter lifespan, while aluminum anode rods are more efficient in hard water and have a longer lifespan. The choice of which one to use depends on the water hardness of the area and the budget.
When you have well water, your water heater and other water appliances require extra care to ensure that they function properly and last as long as possible.
Here are a few key things for owners of homes with well water to keep in mind:
By following these best practices, you can help to ensure that your water heater and other appliances are in good working order and that they last as long as possible. More importantly, you can ensure your family has safe healthy water for all your needs.
Hot water from the home's faucets and sinks can cause serious injury to members of the family. Underestimating the risks posed by burns and scalding wounds only makes members of the household more vulnerable to injury. The following facts about scalds and burns can help illustrate the dangers of improperly heated water in the home.
1. Kids and seniors face the highest risk
Seniors and kids under the age of 5 are especially vulnerable to serious scald injury. A thinner dermis poses an extra threat of deeper burns in children, while limited flexibility can sometimes put seniors in danger with regards to nearby hot water.
2. Overheated water is a common problem at home
Ironically, many homeowners that balk at the idea of burn-related injuries in the home are at the greatest risk. Over 40 percent of inspected urban homes were found to have water heaters set at or above 140 degrees. Setting water temperatures to 120 degrees will increase safety and heating efficiency simultaneously.
3. Serious burns can occur in seconds
Burn wounds caused by a home's water supply can occur quickly. In fact, 140 degree water can cause a third-degree burn after just five seconds of exposure.
4. Cool water is better than ice for temporary treatment
Resist your instinct to ice a serious burn or scald, as treating the injury with ice actually risks worsening the burn. A wet compress or a flow of cool water will do the trick until you can schedule a medical visit.
5. Scalding injuries are mostly preventable
While hundreds of thousands of scald wounds occur each year, 75 percent of burn injuries in children are preventable. Families taking a proactive approach toward preventing burn injuries will see rapid results in the form of fewer burn accidents.
6. Going tankless can eliminate scald injuries
Often performing maintenance on an aging water heater simply increases risks of a scalding accident. Electric tankless water heaters have more precise, reliable heat controls to help prevent burn injuries.
SOURCE: https://webflow.com/design/hot-water-safety
They get too hot, the water inside turns to steam. Steam takes up far more room than the water it once was, and the expansion rips the water heater apart. And make no mistake, there have been some spectacular water heater explosions. The MythBusters have addressed (if that’s the right word) this issue several times:
If this happens in your home you probably won’t show the same level of enthusiasm as these fellows, though. Here’s another less, ah, flamboyant link:
Water Heater Explosions – Should You Be Concerned? | Water Heater Hub
Naturally, there are safety devices to prevent this, mainly a thermostat to turn off the heat source (gas or electric) before things get anywhere near too hot. The next safety device is the T&P valve, the temperature and pressure valve, designed to open if the temperature or pressure gets too high. In order to make the video above, the MythBuster guys had to disable the thermostat and remove the T&P valve.
Of course, no homeowner would ever do that, but over time the T&P valve can get stuck, then fail when it is needed. It needs to be tested, maybe about once per year; if it keeps leaking after the test, have it replaced. There’s no end of websites discussing water heaters and required maintenance, just search “water heater t&p valve.” Here’s one chosen at random (NOT an endorsement!):
Water Heater Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve Discharge Pipe
Original reporting: https://www.quora.com/What-happens-when-a-hot-water-heater-explodes-why
Nine recently confirmed cases of Legionnaires’ disease in Hopkins, MN reminded me of an old blog post that I thought would make for a timely re-blog, along with some updated information. First, here’s the story about the recent cases in Hopkins: http://www.startribune.com/mdh-hopkins-warehouse-and-fountain-under-investigation-as-possible-source-of-legionnaires/393567731/. As mentioned in the story, Legionnaires’ disease resembles a severe case of pneumonia and is spread by inhaling the fine spray from water sources containing Legionella bacteria. In your home, the source of that bacteria could be your water heater, especially if you turn your water heater temperature down to the “vacation” setting when leaving for extended periods of time. The people who are most at risk for Legionnaires’ disease are those over 50, smokers, or those with certain medical conditions.
According to LegionellaPrevention.org, legionella bacteria can grow at temperatures from 68° F to 122° F, but the ideal growth range is between 95° F and 115° F. When it comes to preventing legionella bacteria growth, hot water is better. Legionella bacteria cannot multiply at temperatures above 122° F, and are killed within 32 minutes at 140° F. So crank up the water heater as high as it will go, right? No, of course not. That would create a scald hazard. Water heater manufacturers put a warning on water heaters saying the water temperature should not exceed 125° F to help prevent “severe burns instantly or death from scalds”. Their words, not mine.
So what’s the perfect temperature for your water heater?
Unfortunately, there’s no simple answer. The American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group released a white paper many years ago on this topic, which essentially says that there is no perfect temperature to set your water heater to. Part of the reason is that traditional tank-style water heaters don’t keep the water in the tank at an exact temperature; there is a temperature “band” that tank water heaters maintain. At the beginning of a heating cycle, a water heater set to 120°-ish might start at 115° F, and might get up to 125° F at the end of its heating cycle. There’s more to it than just that, but the point is that water heaters do not produce constant temperatures.
If the water in a tank is kept below scalding temperatures, there is a potential for Legionella bacteria growth. Ideally, the temperature in a water heater tank should be cranked way up to 140° F or higher, but now we’re back to the scald hazard thing. One solution is to have a hot water tempering valve installed for the entire home.
This valve would be installed right at the hot water outlet of the water heater. It would allow the water heater to be cranked up to a scalding 140° F, which would be sufficient to kill bacteria and would extend the capacity of the hot water tank, while at the same time reducing the temperature of all of the hot water throughout the house. Click the following link for more information about these devices: http://media.wattswater.com/F-MXV.pdf . While these devices won’t guarantee safe water temperatures at every fixture, they’ll get you a lot closer.
If you want more hot water out of your water heater and you want to reduce the risk of Legionella bacteria growth, hire a plumber to install one of these mixing valves at your water heater and turn the temperature up on your water heater. I should also mention that point-of-use thermostatic mixing valves should ideally be installed at the faucets for the highest level of safety… but I’m pretty sure I’ve never seen a home fully outfitted with those.
